Last week I got the chance to interview Allison, the owner and sole designer of RockLove jewelry. It’s always great to meet other young females in the fashion industry, but talking to Allison was even better because she’s created a truly unique product. Her jewelry is a mix of gothic, music and pinup influences that all celebrate strong women. She also came up with the genius idea of creating private label lines for bands and singers. In other words, there’s a lot we all can learn from her, so read on! And be sure to read through to the end to see how you can win the necklace above.

Kimberly: How did you learn to make jewelry and what inspires you to make each piece?
Allison: In college, I studied art history and studio art, mostly enjoying sculpture. Being a very small private school with an art department notorious for its post modern course load, there were no fashion, clothing, or jewelry design classes offered. I was allowed; however, to develop my own jewelry curriculum and start my own studio under the generous mentoring of some dedicated professors – something for which I am very grateful. My more formal training was during a semester in Florence, Italy, where I was lucky enough to work as a full time jeweler’s apprentice in a functioning studio. There I studied with numerous artists, and even under the tutorage of a Brandemarte sculptors – learning everything in Italian.

Being an avid student of art history, I’ve always been interested in different genres of fashion and when they repeat. Victorian revival, deco and cabaret, the rockabilly scene, gothic mourning… I’m inspired by images and literary characters depicting strong women (my “femme fatales”), and I like to explore them in RockLove’s collections.

K: How important is networking and how did you make connections with so many people in the music industry?
A: Networking is key – I’ve been extremely lucky to meet some wonderfully supportive people who have been a huge help in our establishment as a brand. Whether you know someone personally or not, it never hurts to introduce yourself and express interest in a collaboration, as long as it is sincere. And since RockLove is based upon artistic unity and mutual respect, it is part of our anthem to approach those we find inspiring. Emilie Autumn, a multi-talented musician/singer in the goth scene, has been a saint in helping establish RockLove in its infantile stages. More wonderful musicians in the rockabilly/psychobilly world (Black Betty and the Bad Habits, The Creepshow) have also been working with us, along with photographers like Ama Lea, Roy Varga, and Madame Pompadour. Few connections I had previously from performing myself in the goth and cabaret scene, but most are made by being friendly, open-minded, and honest.

K: How do you keep track of trends, or at least know what your customers will want?
A: The funny thing is, though I am very aware of what is in style, RockLove doesn’t follow the trends – we are inspired by them. I feel that our customers are drawn to our jewelry because they feel it expresses their own interests instead of trying to sway them into what’s fashionable.

K: What is the most expensive part of launching a line?
A: Definitely developing your first collection. There are always ways to cut corners – make the graphics yourself, have a computer savvy friend help you write the web coding… but investing the money to make those first 20 pieces is tight on the purse strings when you are working with expensive materials. And with your art, you never want to skimp on quality.

K: Do you have a manufacturer or other people working for you on the line? How did you go about arranging that?
A: I started out by working a day job in the jewelry industry – the Diamond District in Manhattan. I’ve made friends with various craftspeople, and I’ve watched them go out of business as the industry has turned to China, India, and Thailand for cheaper mass production. Though I make all the original prototypes and assemble the pieces myself (unless there is a large order, in which I call in a friend or two), I do support a small local family-owned business for the actual castings. I cannot stress enough the importance of taking a personal approach to business – meet and show your appreciation to the owner and employees of the stores and companies with whom you work! They often find it refreshing and will help you in return.

K: Let’s talk a little bit about the not so fun part of the industry, the business side. What are some of the challenges you face on that end?
A: I enjoy the business side, though it was difficult to begin financially. Being very Type-A organized helped me substantially – even if its not your forte, make those line sheets, price pieces consistently, document expenses, keep receipts, and file your taxes!

K: What do you think is the most important decision you’ve made that has made your line successful?
A: Enthusiastic and sincere collaboration! If you support your fellow creatives, they will do just about anything to support you right back. Right now, our most exciting project is a donation and exclusive merchandise account with the Pin Up Angels for the holiday season. RockLove is donating 10% of all December sales to the Angels, who send special care packages to the troops overseas; in exchange, the lovely Pin Ups will be promoting RockLove online and at their shows/concerts/fund-raisers, etc. We both spread our message and support a noble cause while making new friends and connections.

K: What are the top 3 things someone should know before launching a jewelry line? (besides how to make jewerly!)
A: 1. Calculate your final price as you develop your pieces. RockLove’s first collection is so much more expensive than all the rest of our pieces because we splurged with copious amounts of silver, resulting in very high costs… know your target price ahead of time!

2. Learn your industry mark-up and apply it to your line sheets; but keep it an industry secret.

3. Elucidate your passions… it shows through in your jewelry. Don’t make pieces just because you think there is a market for them or because you see the same thing selling in department stores; create what resonates within you and someone out there will love it too.

K: What do you enjoy and what do you dislike (if anything) about working with bands?
A: If you have ever worked with labels and contracts, then you will know that’s the most difficult part of the music industry. Though no matter how frustrating, NEVER work with anyone unless they have signed a confidentiality letter, consignment agreement, and so forth… it’s standard and expected so no need to worry that your client will be offended. It shows that you are a professional and they can trust you with their business.

K: Do you have any other advice for young, aspiring jewelry designers or anyone planning to launch a fashion related business?
A: Don’t be afraid to ask questions of others already in the business; it’s how you learn and probably how they learned too. Of course it would be my pleasure to answer any of your inquiries myself – feel free to email me from the website. Good luck!

Want to win the star pendant I posted above?  All you’ve gotta do is send a blank email with the subject “RockLove!” to contests AT girlstalkinsmack DOT com.  Check out the full details right here on my other blog.  The winner will be supporting the troops overseas as well!